Beckham Estate and the Art of Amphora

Growing up, I was the biggest fan of Alex Keaton. I wanted to carry a briefcase, stay up all night studying, and have the inside scoop on life. As Micheal J. Fox moved on to other roles, such as Marty McFly, Dr. Ben Stone, and Scott Howard, to name a small subset of characters I looked up to.

In 2009, I read his book, “Always Looking Up”, and to say the book was heartbreaking is an understatement. His determination and willingness to open up speaks volume to me. But I was still a fan.

He has a movie coming out on Apple TV called, “Still.” You better believe I am going to watch it on day one. Mr. Fox is doing some interviews to promote the movie, and I came across a quote I will leave here for you.

Speaking of another great human, the Oregon Wine Press has a great writeup on Dick Erath.

I seriously almost forgot to mention Hazelfern bought a plot of land to plant a new estate vineyard! I am so freaking excited for them!!! It is located out near Shea and I have to say the next 4-5 years is going to suck waiting for fruit to come from this new vineyard. Congratulations Laura and Bryan, so much patootski kicking on every single level possible!

Adrian Mendoza, an AHIVOY graduate, has produced his first wine.​

Jean-Michel Jussiaume, the winemaker at Del Rio, has a nice feature celebrating Del Rio’s 25th anniversary.

Some wineries are joining forces to sue PacifiCorp for not cutting power soon enough during the 2020 wildfires.

Decanter has a bit more in-depth coverage of Bordeaux 2022: The en primeur experience.​

If you are curious about Oregon’s 2021 Vintage, I did a little writeup for the International Write Report. If nothing else, you should take a gander at the wineries and wines mentioned.

Sometimes I wish I could say the places and people I visit along my wine journey are all planned out and methodical. Most of the time, though, I enjoy the thrill of being like Dug, the pup on Up, and chasing whatever squirrel crosses my path.

There are times when a squirrel catches my attention. November 3rd, 2021, was the first time I had the opportunity to hear Andrew Beckham of Beckham Estate talk Amphora. I was aware of Amphora, but to hear a winemaker who also makes Amphora talk was one heck of a squirrel I wanted to chase. Sadly, some other squirrel jumped out into the road, caught my attention, and I went hunting!

If you are not aware, Amphora is used in place of a barrel and is a huge clay pot used for winemaking that dates back to the dawn of winemaking. In other regions of the world, the pot is buried in the ground to control temperature. I learned that no stirring is needed because a vortex happens automatically inside the vessel. Here’s more information if you want to dive deeper.

Andrew is the only provider in the US making Amphora commercially, and they take about 3-4 months to form out of one piece of clay firing at 1100 degrees Celsius, that is, 2012 Fahrenheit. If that isn’t enough to blow you away about Andrew, 2021 was the first vintage where he didn’t have to drive to Beaverton and teach pottery. In other years during Harvest, he would get up at 2 or 3 in the morning for a few hours, teach, come home until tasks were done, and repeat until Harvest was done. Beckham Estate’s first vintage was in 2009.

Small rant going back to last week about Jame Suckling’s Oregon report. The hard work and dedication in Andrew’s story will never make the light of day for Suckling. So how do we grow a community and show stories of people making incredible wine on a national/world scale? I know it is more of a rhetorical question, but it is a question that keeps me writing every single week!

I tell you, there are way too many squirrels diverting my attention.

You might ponder what squirrel caught my attention to finally visit Beckham Estate. Well, I came across one of their Instagram posts for an Aligote aged in Amphora. Some of you might know my little obsession with Oregon Aligote. When you combine that with being aged in Amphora, no amount of earplugs can stop that siren song! So, back in February, I finally got my patootski up to the tasting room for a visit.

Sitting amongst the Amphora, assistant winemaker Taylor Rebora poured through the wines and told me the Amphora origin story for David. If you remember, the first vintage for Beckham Estate was in 2009. Taylor told me about a Wine Spectator article David read featuring Elisabetta Foradori and all about her use of Amphora. Right then, David decided to make his own clay pots for wine.

As Taylor told me about Elisabetta, I did my best to write her name correctly because I needed to dive down another rabbit hole. Come to find out, Elisabetta took over the family winery at 20 in 1984 when her dad suddenly passed away. She is known for bringing back Teroldego and aging in Amphora. Here is another writeup, and can you believe James Suckling wrote an incredible piece on her back in 2003 at Wine Spectator?

Here are the wines we tasted:

2021 Trousseau

In 2018 it was grafted, and 2019 was the first vintage.

2021 Aequalis

50/50 Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir with 30-day skin contact on the Gris

2019 Creta Pinot Noir

This was the same Pinot I had on November 3rd, 2021. It was good then and still showing remarkably well

2019 Pinot Gris

11-month skin contact, inspired by Elisabetta and built to age

2021 Sauv Blanc

Eight months in Amphora

2021 Riesling

Interesting, and doesn’t remind me of a Riesling

2021 Aligote

22 cases

All of these wines were aged in Amphora. They were great, and yet again, I suck at not being more descriptive in my journal when talking with the winemaker. I have difficulty describing a Trousseau, a blend of Gris / Pinot Noir, an 11-month skin contact gris, and a Riesling in Amphora. I got a few bottles of the Aligote, and here’s my attempt to describe it.

Delve into the captivating realm of the 2021 Beckham Estate Amphora Aligoté and prepare to be pleasantly surprised. Gazing into the glass, one cannot help but marvel at its unexpected allure. Unlike typical whites of its vintage, this gem adorns a more profound, golden hue reminiscent of a gracefully aged wine, beckoning you into a world of refined elegance.

As the aromatic symphony unfolds, delicate wisps of fresh springtime herbs dance playfully, their essence enchanting your senses. A fragrant tapestry of nature's bounty emerges with each gentle inhale, offering an irresistible invitation to explore further.

Upon the first sip, a tender embrace ensues as the wine unveils its true nature. A succulent, velvety entry graces the palate, unveiling a mid-palate that resonates with a confident full-bodied presence. However, the dynamic surge of acidity takes center stage, breathing life into every sip and infusing it with invigorating vitality.

In its graceful subtlety, this wine unveils a symphony of nuanced flavors that harmoniously blend. While no single element demands immediate attention, the intricate balance and meticulous craftsmanship offer a sensorial journey of pure enjoyment. The Beckham Estate Amphora Aligoté captures the essence of refinement and leaves an indelible mark on your palate.

Toward the end of the tasting, David joined me and Taylor. We talked for a little bit and had a great time. I will make another visit soon when their 2021 Pinots are ready. Plus, I need to get my hands on some more Aligote! When you visit Beckham Estate please tell them, “A.J. sent me!”

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With Gratitude,

A.J.

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PS - Touching base with you about the podcast sponsors. Please reply and let me know your thoughts with one word (Great, meh, awful).