Celestial Hill from the Back of a Gator

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The rain is here. Typically, this is where I complain about summer transitioning into Fall and Winter, but I have zero complaints this year. Yes, Spring took forever to get here, but it stuck around big time once Summer kicked into high gear! It has been a fabulous Summer. It's time to bring out the hoodies for cooler rainy days.

I came across a film about four friends who became South Africa’s top sommeliers in Zimbabwe called Blind Ambition. It looks like it is streaming everywhere, including Apple TV+, Amazon, and YouTube. Here’s a link for more info in case you are interested.

There is a fantastic Harvest Dinner at Abbey Road Farm on November 5th, with more than 20 wineries participating! There is no way I can go, but seeing Soter, Tendril and Resonance are enough for me to go. You have to check this out!

I was going to link to the dinner Brickhouse is holding, but it’s sold out.

First Taste Oregon is happening on January 27th and 28th. It is a blend of Art, Wine, Brew, Spirits, and Food. Here is a link for more details.

Have you heard of Celestial Hill? Neither had I until this past summer at IPNC when I got a card from the owner Chris. A few weeks later, a friend of mine mentioned Celestial Hill, and then a couple more weeks later, I talked with a gentleman at a dinner who pours for Celestial Hill. I think the universe was telling me something.

The drive out to meet Chris at the vineyard was fantastic! Driving back into deep wine country, I always doubt if Siri is telling me the correct path, but I have to give some credit where credit is due. I arrived at the entrance for Celestial Hill a few minutes early with zero difficulties!

Before I get too far into the story this week, you should be aware Celestial Hill has a tasting room in Carlton, and you can also set up appointments to taste at the vineyard. Chris was gracious enough to allow me to visit amongst the vines!

Getting out of my car, Chris greeted me with the biggest of smiles and a perfect handshake. He showed me around a little bit and asked if I wanted to taste or get a tour of the vineyard first. Naturally, I opted for the tour as we both hopped into the Gator to explore!

Overall, the Celestial Hill property has 52 acres with 12 under vine planted in the 90s. As we were going through the vineyard, it was amazing to see how 2022 is producing larger-than-normal clusters. I know everyone isn’t seeing the same results, but those secondary buds helped pick up the slack for some who lost primary buds to frost.

I found a vineyard map under its previous name, “Falcon Glen.” According to the map, I think it is Block 3, which Chris renamed Kendall Grace. He was telling me when he needs to get away for some quiet time, this is where he goes. As we drove up to Kendall Grace, paths were everywhere. I can only imagine exploring these paths for the first time and just having fun driving the Gator to and fro.

Getting up to Kendall Grace felt like you were in another world. It was so peaceful and quiet. The views were spectacular, and you want to talk micro-climates. So many of these blocks are their own secluded areas of the land tucked away among giant evergreens.

When the vines were initially planted, all of it was Pinot Noir. However, Chris is a Chardonnay fan and grafted some vines for some estate Chardonnay. I believe he said 2022 will be the first vintage of estate Chardonnay and has some land cleared away to plant Chardonnay very shortly.

Leaving the Kendall Grace vineyard, Chris pointed to a bird cannon and said to cover your ears just in case it went off as we passed by. It didn’t, I am sure my eardrums were happy, but I marveled at it because that was the first time I had seen an actual bird cannon. I knew of them and definitely heard them. It was nice seeing one for the first time.

Driving back to the tasting area, Chris pointed out several places along the paths where he will set up pavilions for people to have lunches. He also wants to create another deck-like tasting set up in the woods. I can only imagine what this place will look like in a few years.

As I mentioned earlier, the vineyard used to be called Falcon Glen. Elizabeth Chambers, Silvan Ridge (also under the Elizabeth Chambers umbrella), and Marchand (never heard of this one) did a single vineyard designate of Falcon Glen. Chris and his wife Melissa bought the property in 2020, and it was also the first vintage for Celestial Hill.

When Chris told me Jay Somers was the winemaker, I should have done better getting the backstory, but I didn’t. Chris told me it was by chance, and the two had the same philosophies on wine. If you don’t know who Jay Somers is, he started J. Christopher wines. Let me know if you need more details, and we can talk.

Getting back to the tasting area, Chris pointed out a massive patch of land in front of us. He told me the story that the person who owned it didn’t have any family to pass along the 850 acres. So he created a trust managed by a board of directors but essentially was given to Eastern Oregon University for farming and agricultural education. You can read more about it here. I mention the patch of land because that is the view as you sit outside, taking in the spectacular views.

Sitting there, taking in the scenery, I imagined what it would be like sitting here on a summer evening with a clear sky. There is zero light pollution, and when I mentioned earlier about being deep in Wine Country, I wasn’t kidding. I shared my thoughts with Chris as he came out with a killer charcuterie board. He agreed with me and mentioned an upcoming sold-out stargazing night.

As Chris and Melissa came up with a name for the winery, they sat outside looking at the sky and taking in the view. I am sure they were also sharing some wine when they came up with the name Celestial Hill. When you look at the label on the bottle, there is a picture of a tree. Chris pointed the tree out to me, I took a picture of it, but I did a horrible job trying to capture what is on the bottle.

Chris brought the 2020 Rose from the Kendall Grace estate vineyard and the Charcuterie board. It was a great Rose, with a little darker pigment than most Roses and killer acidity.

Early in Chris’s career, he was married with kids and lived in Belgium. He remembers mentioning to Melissa one night when they visited a bistro to order water. At that time, they were getting their feet under them, and money was tight. Surprisingly the wine was cheaper than the water. Also, that evening at the bistro, the hospitality staff helped take care of the kids while Chris and Melissa had a peaceful, relaxing evening. It was a memory of great hospitality that has lived on for several years.

As Chris was pouring the 2020 Fennwood Chardonnay, he asked if I was a Chard fan. My response was, “Yes, I am!” Chris had a big smile, and his body language was all excited. There is nothing better than sharing wine with other people. When Chris told me this pour was from the Fennwood vineyard, I am sure Chris saw I was super excited! On the nose, super amazing fruit, acidity for days, and a hearty textured mouthful. I was super happy, and so was Chris. He went inside to open another bottle to share.

I don’t remember how the topic of Sparkling came up, but at some point, Chris mentioned they were working on Sparkling. I processed multiple data points and meant to ask, “So, you bought the vineyard in 2020 and started your Sparkling program the same year. What made you want to start with a Sparkling program right off the bat?” I kind of asked the question, but it didn’t come out right. I find it forward thinking they were committed right out the gate, and yes, they are using Andrew Davis.

Next up was the 2020 Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay with about 1/3 new oak lightly toasted and showing off great Eola fruit on the nose and mid-palate. Again, compared to the Fennwood, I felt it was lighter in body but gratifying!

I am running out of little stories in between the pours.

The next pour was the extra bottle Chris opened. It was the 2020 Barrel Select Chardonnay. Chris told me this was 50% new oak and 100% Fennwood fruit. The first Fenwood Chardonnay was excellent, and I enjoyed the Barrel Select at least tens times more!

Chris told me a story of when he was living stateside, and his boss handed him a $5,000 bonus check for going way above and beyond the call of duty. However, before the check was put into Chris’s hand, his boss made him promise two things. First, you must spend 50% on your family, and second, use the other 50% on wine. Chris’s boss felt Chris needed some family time along with some good wine. So Chris took the family to Disney and was a kid in a candy store when he went to the wine store!

We are moving on to the last three wines and Pinots!

The first Pinot was the 2020 Willamette Valley. It is a blend of three estate vineyards (Glenn, Ben, and Brady) with 100% free-run juice. Sitting there with Chris, he was very upfront about the 2020 elephant in the room, smoke. He mentioned they picked after the fires, and immediately my smoke radar went up. I was trying my darnedest to find smoke on the first sip and failed. At $38/bottle, this Pinot had an excellent tannin structure, a nice body, and a pleasant spicy finish.

Chris presented the 2020 Brady Vineyard Pinot, and again I couldn’t detect any smoke at all. Every vintage has specific characteristics to it. For example, 2018 was a hot year and brought a big bolder-in-your-face approach to the table. 2019 was a cooler with elegant, savory fruit. I still don’t know how to describe 2020 fruit, but Brady Vineyard tasted like 2020 (minus the smoke). It was more complex compared to the Willamette and lovely!

The final pour was the 2020 Benjamin Pinot Noir with 50% new oak and my favorite Pinot of the three. Everything about it immediately grabs your attention on the nose, entry, and mid-palate with deep dark fruit through and through.

Chris and Melissa were initially looking at buying property in France. However, their efforts landed them in Oregon, purchasing the 52-acre property we know as Celestial Hill. It will be a blast to see what Chris and Melissa do over the next few years. I can’t wait to try their Sparkling when it comes out, along with their estate chardonnay. I highly encourage you to visit their website to make an appointment at their Carlton tasting room or arrange a visit to the vineyard outside McMinnville. During my tasting, Chris went above and beyond, and Melissa sent me home with tomatoes, eggs, and pears. It was a lovely tasting! Make a reservation on their website, and when you visit, be sure to say, “A.J. sent me!”

With Gratitude,

A.J.

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